The above note about Melissa Clark’s fruit galette from Walter, a reader, stuck with me. Making this adaptable recipe truly is a joy. You have the chilled, floured dough on your hands; a sculptor’s satisfaction of rolling the dough lump into a smooth sheet. Preparing the colorful fruit maybe leaves a soft fuchsia blush on your fingertips, an endearing souvenir from assertive plums or melting raspberries. Then out comes the pastry brush — always a small rush of pride to use those specific, dedicated cooking tools — to coat your dough folds in eggy cream, knowing they’ll bake into…
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