Something is changing about New York City’s pizza.It’s not the continued farmers’ market-ification of ingredients, nor is it the ever-expanding definition of what can go on a pizza (ham and horseradish cream, anyone?). It’s not the natural wine pairings, or even the buzzy, inventive pop-ups.Instead, the ovens themselves are in transition.“The most famous version of pizza from New York is the gas oven pizza — the pizza by the slice, the pick-it-up-and-fold-it-grease-running-down-your-arm version,” said Scott Wiener, who leads pizza tours in the city.But some of New York…
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